Evaluation

The make-up of the Elizabethan era was very distinctive and for my designs, I wanted to incorporate some of the significant elements with a contemporary twist. In some designs I was inspired by the traditional Elizabethan colour palette whereas others were inspired by the positioning of the make-up and the shapes created.

The various technical sessions we had such as ‘lip trip’ and ‘lash deco’ were hugely inspirational and offered plenty of creative ideas for the contemporary aspect of the make-up designs. I was mindful of the fact that this was a first assessment and that it would be practically carried out by a peer so I opted for some quite simplistic designs. I do feel however I could have been more experimental with different mediums and materials.

All of my designs were improved throughout the trial period and I was able to overcome application issues during this time. For example, I had difficulty apply the white Illamasqua foundation flawlessly, without streaks. After some practise attempts, I concluded it worked best when applied onto well moisturised skin, mixed equally with matte primer.

When interpreting my partner’s make-up design, I felt I had a lot of free reign as all I had to go by was the face chart. Discussing the design with my partner, I got to understand which products and techniques she used to create her own design as well as those I’d feel confident using to create her design in the assessment. It was also really great to see someone else’s ideas and see her inspiration and other designs. 

My Assessment

Having already practised Corey’s design not only on her but on myself too made me confident during the assessment and I completed the make-up within the time frame with no difficulties. Corey’s pre-cut eyelashes saved a lot of time and she’d also included in her design which parts of the eyelashes she wanted on the top and on the bottom making my job even more straightforward. Due to the nature of the shots required, I protected Corey’s clothes with couch roll so I could work the white base all the way down her neck to her clothes line. I also worked the white base around the back of her eyes and down her neck.

Here are the images from the final make-up assessment. 

Partner's Design

Corey’s design included the use of Paperself eyelashes which we’d worked with in a practical session in the weeks prior with Lara. Corey explained her design to me, making it very straightforward to follow. For the base, Corey wanted the white Illamasqua foundation mixed equally with the Illamasqua satin primer. Then, after setting this with loose powder, Illamasqua Ambition blusher was applied to the cheeks. MAC coffee pencil was worked through the eyebrows and then the gold colour from the Illamasqua metallic palette was used underneath the eyebrow. The eyes were lined with Bobby Brown gel eyeliner (provided by Corey) and then the lashes were coated with mascara using disposable mascara wands. Then, using the duo lash adhesive, I applied the paperself eyelashes using tweezers. Corey had cut these prior to my application to save time. Finally, the metallic gold is used again on the lips.

 During my trial run, it was suggested by our teacher Sue that we can achieve a really great effect by powdering the lips on top of the gold and then reapplying the gold with the lips screwed up and then re-powder to create a cracked, dry effect. Corey liked this technique so chose to include this in the final assessment. 

Here are images from trials I ran on Corey and myself. 

Make-Up Assessment

I am really pleased with Corey's application of my design. She spent a lot of time creating a flawless base which looked great but meant she was slightly pushed for time when it came to applying the rest of the make-up. She followed my design accordingly and was very professional with her application. 

Here are the images from the final assessment. 

Final Design Practise

Discussing my design with my assessment partner, Corey, and teachers during our trial period helped me to expand and improve my design. Corey practised my design on me which gave me the opportunity to talk her through it and ensure she knew what was expected. I made sure that all the products and tools required were those found in our compulsory kits so Corey had all the materials to trial the design in her own time too. 

Here are the images from Corey's trial on me. 

Tech File: Traditional Elizabethan

Products & Equipment required:

·        Illamasqua matte primer

·        Illamasqua white foundation

·        Pink powder blusher

·        Translucent loose powder

·        Eyebrow/lash tool

·        Brush set

Method:

·        Shake the white base to avoid separation

·        Mix the base and primer on the back of your hand with foundation brush

·        Start at the nose, go over the lips and into the corners of the eyes, make-up over and in the ear, up to the eyelash, through the eyebrow, down to the neck line and into the hair line

·        Buff the foundation to lose the clown like quality

·        Work eyebrow brush into the white foundation and work into the eyebrow, against the hair to cover the eyebrows

·        Powder everything, everywhere

·        Circular motion of pink blusher on the apples of the cheeks (not contouring)

·        Use smaller brush to pat the pink blusher onto the lips

·        Make eyelashes white using disposable

Tech File: Lips

Products & Equipment required:

·        Kryolan Lip Palette

·        MAC Red Pencil

·        Lip brush

·        Lip balm/ Carmex

Method:

1.      If the model has dry lips, you may wish to exfoliate prior to make-up application

2.      To hydrate the lips and provide a good base, apply some Carmex to the model’s lips

3.      When applying the lip liner, have your model angle her head in accordance to the direction you are drawing

4.      Begin on the upper lip from the inner corner to the cupids bow

5.      Do not take your pencil off the lips, use small back and forth motions to ensure a neat line

6.      Line the cupids bow (the angle of the brush is perfect for this)

7.      Draw a line from the centre of the cupids bow to the bottom lip and use this point to begin lining the bottom lip

8.      Draw dots on the bottom lip from the centre to the outer edges and then join them

9.      Apply your selected lip colour within this lines, have your model open her mouth wide to ensure you’ve covered all of the lip

Notes:

·         Choose a lip colour that is slightly lighter than the lip liner  

·        To achieve a matte lip effect, press on powder

·        You can create a 3D effect by applying lip gloss on the centre of the bottom lip and the cupids bow

·        If working with different shades of a colour, put the darker tone in the corner 

Tech File: Eyes

Products & Equipment required:

·        Eyeshadow Palette

·        Eyeliner

·        Mascara

·        Translucent loose powder

·        Eyebrow/lash tool

·        Brush set

·        Disposable mascara wands

Method:

1.      Identify your models eyes, referring to the ‘eye shape’ sheet, this will offer you eye make-up technique specifically to suit the particular eye shape

2.      Ask your model to look up and apply translucent powder underneath the eye to catch fall out

3.      Choose an eye shadow colour in 3 shades, light, medium and dark

4.      Work the lightest shade over the eyelid and up to the eyebrow

5.      Then, apply the medium colour just over the eye lid

6.      Finally, apply the darkest colour only in the outer corner of the eye

7.      Draw a neat line of eye shadow along the lash line, getting your model to look down whilst you do so

8.      Using disposable mascara wands, apply mascara to the model’s eye lashes. Have your model look straight ahead for the upper lashes and then look up when coating the bottom eye lashes

Notes:

·        Don’t forget to brush off the excess powder once you’ve finished your eye make-up application

·        To avoid smudging the base, use a powder puff if you need to rest against the model’s face 

Tech File: Shaping & Contouring

Products & Equipment required:

·        Foundation Palette

·        Blusher

·        Highlighter Brush

·        Blusher Brush

·        Powder Brush

Method:

1.      Having completed the base, but before powdering…

2.      Take a foundation colour 2 shades lighter than the skin tone to highlight with

3.      Using the highlighter brush, work this lighter tone across the top of the cheek bones

4.      Also work the colour
- into the corner of the eyes and centre of the eye lid
- above and below the brow line
-across the forehead and down the nose
-beneath the nose and around the edges
- around the corners of the mouth
- into the groove below the lip

5.      Use the powder brush to buff this into the base

6.      Select a foundation colour 2 shades darker than the skin tone to contour with

7.      Work this colour
- below the cheek bones (from centre of ear to corner of lip)
- narrowly down either side of the nose
- just above the temples on either side of the head
- along the jaw line

8.      Using the blusher brush, have your model smile to locate the apples of the cheeks

9.      Apply the blusher to this area, working it back up towards the hairline, between the contoured areas

10.   Set with powder

Notes:

·        Highlighter places emphasis on areas and brings them forward

·        Contouring gives the impression of receding facial features

·        Feel on the model’s face for the cheek bones and work according to their position

·        Blend out the highlighting and contouring so there are no severe lines

·        Work the blusher up into the hairline and blend outwards 

Tech File: The Base

Products & Equipment required:

·        Foundation Palette

·        Primer

·        Concealer Palette

·        Translucent Loose Powder

·        Foundation Brush

·        Powder Brush

·        Powder Puff

Method:

1.      Evaluate the right base for the right skin

2.      Prep the skin with cleanser, toner and moisturiser

3.      Match the foundation colour to the model’s skin tone

4.      Apply a primer beforehand or mix in with the foundation

5.      Use the foundation brush to apply foundation all over the face, ears and neck

6.      Conceal over the top of the base to correct any imperfections

7.      Using the powder brush, buff in the base

8.      Finish off by powdering the make-up to set it and prevent shine and crease lines

Notes:

·        Carry out a consultation on your model to identify skin type (young, old, dry, greasy, spotty)

·        Mix foundation colours to achieve the perfect match

·        Grease based products are good for dry skin and photographic work

·        Tinted moisturisers are good to use on male models as it maintains the texture of their skin

·        On male models, use a matt primer down the t-zone for a natural look

·        Mix White Illamasqua foundation with concealers

·        Different colours cancel out different skin tones
- green takes out red
- pink takes out blue
- peach/yellow takes out purple/brown

·        Do NOT use grease products on top of powder

·        Aim to enhance the yellow tones of the model’s skin tone as opposed to the pink tones

·        Clinique hypo-allergenic range is ideal as it’s suitable for all skin types

Tech File: Health & Safety

These are health and safety practises that should be identified with and present during all studio/ practical work…

·        Prepare your station in advance with any equipment or products you many require

·        Lay couch roll onto the surface prior to setting up your station

·        Carry out a consultation on your model and refer to it regularly to ensure a safe practical session

·        Make sure you wash/sanitise your hands regularly

·        Ensure you are presentable, respectable clothing, hair tied back, no jewellery etc.

·        Ensure that all electrical tools and appliances being used have been PAT tested

·        Stow/trail wires of electrical items safely to avoid a trip hazard

·        Ensure all products and equipment are stored in accordance to their regulations

·        Clean and sterilise all brushes and tools between use on models to avoid cross contamination

·        Use disposable tools where necessary to avoid cross contamination

·        Decant products and work from a separate palette to avoid cross contamination

·        Protect the model’s clothes during the practical with a wrap or couch roll

·        Should a model present any contra indications that restrict or prohibit the practical session, act accordingly

·        Be sure to report any accidents, spillages or other hazards that occur in the work room immediately

Final Design

 Out of the 3 designs I’ve created, the third is my preferred. I felt there was still room for improvement and after a few trial sessions, I made a few alterations to achieve a final design. Advancing from my third design, I have chosen to work more around the eyes with an okra yellow smokey eye, white eyeliner and a coat of mascara. Instead of white eyebrows which I decided didn’t work for the look, I’ve used a MAC coffee coloured pencil and worked it through my eyebrows to provide a more definitive frame. I chose a slightly darker shade of lip colour, again from the Kryolan palette, to give more definition.

Design 3

Design 3 

My third design is to have a band of white across the face to give the impression of the traditional Elizabethan emerging from the skin, not entirely white. On my second trial I worked white foundation into the eyebrows but I wasn’t too pleased with the outcome of that. The second set of pictures show how I trialled different shades of lip colour from the Kryolan palette to see what would work.

Design 2

Design 2 

My second design was inspired by the lip trip workshop and also contouring with colour. I chose to do the lips and cheeks in purple because that was one of the colours higher class Elizabethans wore.

Design 1

As I approach the final assessment of the Elizabethan unit, I am required to create a contemporary Elizabethan design that can be carried out by somebody else on myself. In preparation, I created 3 possible designs to trial on myself and assess.

DESIGN 1 

With this look, I wanted to achieve a reverse on the traditional Elizabethan make-up. Therefore I opted for a rouge eye and then white lips and emphasised highlight on the cheeks. For the lips, I used Illamasqua white foundation and then set with loose powder.

Paperself Designs

Here are a couple of designs, inspired by the Paperself eyelash workshop. 

New Elizabethans

My 3 choices of New Elizabethan’s are:

Russell Brand
Angelina Jolie
Lena Dunham

I chose Russell Brand because I feel he has overcome a lot throughout his life and has become a positive role model for people in similar situations as he once was. The comedian suffers from ADHD and bipolar disorder and has a history of bulimia, self-harm, heroin addiction and alcoholism. He has been sober since 2003 and throughout his rehabilitation process, Russell sought help through the Hare Krishna Movement and has also developed a love for Transcendental Meditation. Russell is incredibly well-spoken and literate which makes his stand-up comedy all the more entertaining as does his erratic personality which seems to be equally loved and hated. Also, Russell participates regularly in many activist campaigns.

I think Angelina Jolie qualifies as a ‘New Elizabethan’ because she uses her fame and success to help others. She promotes humanitarian causes and has her own organisation, the Jolie-Pitt foundation which is dedicated to eradicating extreme poverty, protecting natural resources and conserving wildlife. Since 2001 she has been on field missions around the world and met with refugees in more than 20 countries and she sold the first photos of her daughter Shiloh for $4m and gave the money to charities serving African children.

Most recently, Angelina underwent a double mastectomy to reduce her genetically high risk of breast cancer and she spoke out about it to urge other women to be aware of the signs and get checked out. It’s astounding to see one woman achieve so much and maintain a very successful career in the acting industry too. Angelina understands how influential her position is in the public eye and she selflessly utilises this to inspire and help others.  

Lena Dunham is the creator of Girls which has become a huge hit thanks to the way it realistically portrays women and relationships. Lena herself stars in the series as the main character and she isn’t afraid to really expose herself to honour the gritty reality the show presents. She has a lack of vanity and is very confident in her own skin and she empowers women to feel the same way. Lena is very funny and self-aware and she uses this to her advantage and the humour of the show. Her work on Girls inspires me immensely and therefore she deserves a place as a New Elizabethan.

Russell Brand set for role in Pirates of The Caribbean | The Sun |News. 2013. Russell Brand set for role in Pirates of The Caribbean | The Sun |News. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/article1888657.ece. [Accessed 15 November 2013]

Angelina Jolie, noted activist, takes steps toward her own health -. 2013.Angelina Jolie, noted activist, takes steps toward her own health -. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.addictinginfo.org/2013/05/15/angelina-jolie-uses-celebrity-status-to-bring-controversial-cancer-treatment-to-the-public-stage/angelina-jolie-noted-activist-takes-steps-toward-her-own-health/. [Accessed 15 November2013]

Lena Dunham in ASOS: The Girls Creator Talks Imperfect Heroines & Chloë Sevigny's Style | Grazia Fashion. 2013. Lena Dunham in ASOS: The Girls Creator Talks Imperfect Heroines & Chloë Sevigny's Style | Grazia Fashion. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/archive/2012/10/03/lena-dunham-in-asos--the-girls-creator-talks-imperfect-heroines---being-a-chlo--.htm. [Accessed 15 November 2013]