Tech File: Lips

Products & Equipment required:

·        Kryolan Lip Palette

·        MAC Red Pencil

·        Lip brush

·        Lip balm/ Carmex

Method:

1.      If the model has dry lips, you may wish to exfoliate prior to make-up application

2.      To hydrate the lips and provide a good base, apply some Carmex to the model’s lips

3.      When applying the lip liner, have your model angle her head in accordance to the direction you are drawing

4.      Begin on the upper lip from the inner corner to the cupids bow

5.      Do not take your pencil off the lips, use small back and forth motions to ensure a neat line

6.      Line the cupids bow (the angle of the brush is perfect for this)

7.      Draw a line from the centre of the cupids bow to the bottom lip and use this point to begin lining the bottom lip

8.      Draw dots on the bottom lip from the centre to the outer edges and then join them

9.      Apply your selected lip colour within this lines, have your model open her mouth wide to ensure you’ve covered all of the lip

Notes:

·         Choose a lip colour that is slightly lighter than the lip liner  

·        To achieve a matte lip effect, press on powder

·        You can create a 3D effect by applying lip gloss on the centre of the bottom lip and the cupids bow

·        If working with different shades of a colour, put the darker tone in the corner 

Tech File: Eyes

Products & Equipment required:

·        Eyeshadow Palette

·        Eyeliner

·        Mascara

·        Translucent loose powder

·        Eyebrow/lash tool

·        Brush set

·        Disposable mascara wands

Method:

1.      Identify your models eyes, referring to the ‘eye shape’ sheet, this will offer you eye make-up technique specifically to suit the particular eye shape

2.      Ask your model to look up and apply translucent powder underneath the eye to catch fall out

3.      Choose an eye shadow colour in 3 shades, light, medium and dark

4.      Work the lightest shade over the eyelid and up to the eyebrow

5.      Then, apply the medium colour just over the eye lid

6.      Finally, apply the darkest colour only in the outer corner of the eye

7.      Draw a neat line of eye shadow along the lash line, getting your model to look down whilst you do so

8.      Using disposable mascara wands, apply mascara to the model’s eye lashes. Have your model look straight ahead for the upper lashes and then look up when coating the bottom eye lashes

Notes:

·        Don’t forget to brush off the excess powder once you’ve finished your eye make-up application

·        To avoid smudging the base, use a powder puff if you need to rest against the model’s face 

Tech File: Shaping & Contouring

Products & Equipment required:

·        Foundation Palette

·        Blusher

·        Highlighter Brush

·        Blusher Brush

·        Powder Brush

Method:

1.      Having completed the base, but before powdering…

2.      Take a foundation colour 2 shades lighter than the skin tone to highlight with

3.      Using the highlighter brush, work this lighter tone across the top of the cheek bones

4.      Also work the colour
- into the corner of the eyes and centre of the eye lid
- above and below the brow line
-across the forehead and down the nose
-beneath the nose and around the edges
- around the corners of the mouth
- into the groove below the lip

5.      Use the powder brush to buff this into the base

6.      Select a foundation colour 2 shades darker than the skin tone to contour with

7.      Work this colour
- below the cheek bones (from centre of ear to corner of lip)
- narrowly down either side of the nose
- just above the temples on either side of the head
- along the jaw line

8.      Using the blusher brush, have your model smile to locate the apples of the cheeks

9.      Apply the blusher to this area, working it back up towards the hairline, between the contoured areas

10.   Set with powder

Notes:

·        Highlighter places emphasis on areas and brings them forward

·        Contouring gives the impression of receding facial features

·        Feel on the model’s face for the cheek bones and work according to their position

·        Blend out the highlighting and contouring so there are no severe lines

·        Work the blusher up into the hairline and blend outwards 

Tech File: The Base

Products & Equipment required:

·        Foundation Palette

·        Primer

·        Concealer Palette

·        Translucent Loose Powder

·        Foundation Brush

·        Powder Brush

·        Powder Puff

Method:

1.      Evaluate the right base for the right skin

2.      Prep the skin with cleanser, toner and moisturiser

3.      Match the foundation colour to the model’s skin tone

4.      Apply a primer beforehand or mix in with the foundation

5.      Use the foundation brush to apply foundation all over the face, ears and neck

6.      Conceal over the top of the base to correct any imperfections

7.      Using the powder brush, buff in the base

8.      Finish off by powdering the make-up to set it and prevent shine and crease lines

Notes:

·        Carry out a consultation on your model to identify skin type (young, old, dry, greasy, spotty)

·        Mix foundation colours to achieve the perfect match

·        Grease based products are good for dry skin and photographic work

·        Tinted moisturisers are good to use on male models as it maintains the texture of their skin

·        On male models, use a matt primer down the t-zone for a natural look

·        Mix White Illamasqua foundation with concealers

·        Different colours cancel out different skin tones
- green takes out red
- pink takes out blue
- peach/yellow takes out purple/brown

·        Do NOT use grease products on top of powder

·        Aim to enhance the yellow tones of the model’s skin tone as opposed to the pink tones

·        Clinique hypo-allergenic range is ideal as it’s suitable for all skin types

Tech File: Health & Safety

These are health and safety practises that should be identified with and present during all studio/ practical work…

·        Prepare your station in advance with any equipment or products you many require

·        Lay couch roll onto the surface prior to setting up your station

·        Carry out a consultation on your model and refer to it regularly to ensure a safe practical session

·        Make sure you wash/sanitise your hands regularly

·        Ensure you are presentable, respectable clothing, hair tied back, no jewellery etc.

·        Ensure that all electrical tools and appliances being used have been PAT tested

·        Stow/trail wires of electrical items safely to avoid a trip hazard

·        Ensure all products and equipment are stored in accordance to their regulations

·        Clean and sterilise all brushes and tools between use on models to avoid cross contamination

·        Use disposable tools where necessary to avoid cross contamination

·        Decant products and work from a separate palette to avoid cross contamination

·        Protect the model’s clothes during the practical with a wrap or couch roll

·        Should a model present any contra indications that restrict or prohibit the practical session, act accordingly

·        Be sure to report any accidents, spillages or other hazards that occur in the work room immediately

Final Design

 Out of the 3 designs I’ve created, the third is my preferred. I felt there was still room for improvement and after a few trial sessions, I made a few alterations to achieve a final design. Advancing from my third design, I have chosen to work more around the eyes with an okra yellow smokey eye, white eyeliner and a coat of mascara. Instead of white eyebrows which I decided didn’t work for the look, I’ve used a MAC coffee coloured pencil and worked it through my eyebrows to provide a more definitive frame. I chose a slightly darker shade of lip colour, again from the Kryolan palette, to give more definition.

Design 3

Design 3 

My third design is to have a band of white across the face to give the impression of the traditional Elizabethan emerging from the skin, not entirely white. On my second trial I worked white foundation into the eyebrows but I wasn’t too pleased with the outcome of that. The second set of pictures show how I trialled different shades of lip colour from the Kryolan palette to see what would work.

Design 2

Design 2 

My second design was inspired by the lip trip workshop and also contouring with colour. I chose to do the lips and cheeks in purple because that was one of the colours higher class Elizabethans wore.

Design 1

As I approach the final assessment of the Elizabethan unit, I am required to create a contemporary Elizabethan design that can be carried out by somebody else on myself. In preparation, I created 3 possible designs to trial on myself and assess.

DESIGN 1 

With this look, I wanted to achieve a reverse on the traditional Elizabethan make-up. Therefore I opted for a rouge eye and then white lips and emphasised highlight on the cheeks. For the lips, I used Illamasqua white foundation and then set with loose powder.

Paperself Designs

Here are a couple of designs, inspired by the Paperself eyelash workshop. 

New Elizabethans

My 3 choices of New Elizabethan’s are:

Russell Brand
Angelina Jolie
Lena Dunham

I chose Russell Brand because I feel he has overcome a lot throughout his life and has become a positive role model for people in similar situations as he once was. The comedian suffers from ADHD and bipolar disorder and has a history of bulimia, self-harm, heroin addiction and alcoholism. He has been sober since 2003 and throughout his rehabilitation process, Russell sought help through the Hare Krishna Movement and has also developed a love for Transcendental Meditation. Russell is incredibly well-spoken and literate which makes his stand-up comedy all the more entertaining as does his erratic personality which seems to be equally loved and hated. Also, Russell participates regularly in many activist campaigns.

I think Angelina Jolie qualifies as a ‘New Elizabethan’ because she uses her fame and success to help others. She promotes humanitarian causes and has her own organisation, the Jolie-Pitt foundation which is dedicated to eradicating extreme poverty, protecting natural resources and conserving wildlife. Since 2001 she has been on field missions around the world and met with refugees in more than 20 countries and she sold the first photos of her daughter Shiloh for $4m and gave the money to charities serving African children.

Most recently, Angelina underwent a double mastectomy to reduce her genetically high risk of breast cancer and she spoke out about it to urge other women to be aware of the signs and get checked out. It’s astounding to see one woman achieve so much and maintain a very successful career in the acting industry too. Angelina understands how influential her position is in the public eye and she selflessly utilises this to inspire and help others.  

Lena Dunham is the creator of Girls which has become a huge hit thanks to the way it realistically portrays women and relationships. Lena herself stars in the series as the main character and she isn’t afraid to really expose herself to honour the gritty reality the show presents. She has a lack of vanity and is very confident in her own skin and she empowers women to feel the same way. Lena is very funny and self-aware and she uses this to her advantage and the humour of the show. Her work on Girls inspires me immensely and therefore she deserves a place as a New Elizabethan.

Russell Brand set for role in Pirates of The Caribbean | The Sun |News. 2013. Russell Brand set for role in Pirates of The Caribbean | The Sun |News. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/article1888657.ece. [Accessed 15 November 2013]

Angelina Jolie, noted activist, takes steps toward her own health -. 2013.Angelina Jolie, noted activist, takes steps toward her own health -. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.addictinginfo.org/2013/05/15/angelina-jolie-uses-celebrity-status-to-bring-controversial-cancer-treatment-to-the-public-stage/angelina-jolie-noted-activist-takes-steps-toward-her-own-health/. [Accessed 15 November2013]

Lena Dunham in ASOS: The Girls Creator Talks Imperfect Heroines & Chloë Sevigny's Style | Grazia Fashion. 2013. Lena Dunham in ASOS: The Girls Creator Talks Imperfect Heroines & Chloë Sevigny's Style | Grazia Fashion. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/archive/2012/10/03/lena-dunham-in-asos--the-girls-creator-talks-imperfect-heroines---being-a-chlo--.htm. [Accessed 15 November 2013]

Paperself Workshop

This week I had the great fortune of working with Paperself eyelashes in my practical make-up session. Paperself was founded in London in 2009. They are a brand of paper eyelashes that are laser cut into beautiful designs. The various styles available gives you a great selection to choose the perfect lashes for your look. These eyelashes can be applied and tailored as easily as your standard false set. Paperself eyelashes give you a great opportunity to be creative. Though they are generically worn along the lash line, they can be positioned anywhere on the body to create a diverse and cutting edge look.

I really enjoyed working with Paperself eyelashes. The application process is really straight forward and they work so well with any make-up design.

There website, http://www.paperself.com/ offers a great insight into the designs available and were you can source Paperself eyelashes. 

Neutral Design Trial

Here I trialled my neutral design plan on myself. 

Monochromatic Design Trial

Here I trialled my monochromatic design plan on myself. 

Colour Scheme Design Plans

I created four Elizabethan style design plans based on the four colour schemes I've learnt about, monochromatic, complementary, analogous and neutral.

Colour Theory

In a lesson about colour theory, I learnt about the representation of particular colours and which colours to use together in accordance to a colour wheel to achieve great visuals. The colours in a colour wheel can be divided into ‘aggressive’ and ‘cool’ colours. Reds, oranges and yellows fall under the ‘aggressive’ category and blues, greens and purples fall under the cool category. 

As far as representation goes, the use of a particular colour can convey or express a mood. For example red has the connotations of love and power whereas the use of blue would imply cool and sadness. White would reflect purity and light whereas black would suggest mystery and darkness.

When creating colours, I learnt that

• To get a tint, you add white to the colour

• To get a shade, you add black to the colour

• To get a tone, you add grey to a colour

Also, there are harmonious colour schemes you can use that bring together colours that work well together.

Monochromatic – using a single colour in different tones, tints or shades

Complementary – using two colours that sit opposite each other on a colour wheel

Analogous – using at least two but no more than five colours that are next to each other on the colour wheel

Neutral – using a palette of neutral colours