Monday, 21 October 2013

Queen Elizabeth I vs. Miley Cyrus

I have chosen the contemporary figure, Miley Cyrus, to stylistically compare with my favourite Elizabethan portrait, Queen Elizabeth I, The Sieve Portrait. 



Clothing
Elizabeth wears layers of rich fabrics and jewels. Her gowns have narrowed waits to exaggerate her silhouette as well as puffy sleeves and full skirts. She also wears a think ruffled collar. Miley’s style contrasts this hugely. She is often seen sporting as little as possible, often skin tight attire in all forms, exposing a lot of skin.

Make-up
Elizabeth has a pale complexion and her shaven hair line makes for a large forehead. Her eyebrows are plucked very thin and she has rouge on her lips and cheeks. Miley has a healthy skin tone, her eyebrows are well groomed and she wears mascara and eyeliner. Like Elizabeth, she too wears red on her lips.

Hair
Elizabeth has curly red hair however sometimes wears a wig. Miley has blonde, cropped hair that is shaven on the sides and back.

Making Miley Elizabethan
Though part of Miley’s hair is shaven, there is enough length on top to style. I would dye it a rich red tone, similar to Elizabeth’s and I would tightly curl it to resemble Elizabeth’s hair. Miley wouldn’t wear eye make-up. I’d dye her eyebrows a blonde/nude colour so they were barely noticeable, giving the illusion of a large forehead. I would keep her red lip and add a little red to her cheeks.

 As far as clothing is concerned, I imagine Miley wearing a collar of studs instead of ruffs to adhere to her ratchet style. Like Queen Elizabeth, Miley would wear a full skirt dress however it would be customised to make it more contemporary. Where the waist narrows, the material will be cut out to reveal skin. Also the dress would be short so Miley’s legs would be visible, in keeping with her current style.

Portraiture of Elizabeth I of England - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. 2013. Portraiture of Elizabeth I of England - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. [ONLINE] Available at:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portraiture_of_Elizabeth_I_of_England. [Accessed 21 October 2013].

Miley-Cyrus-Photoshoot-by-Terry-Richardson-September-2013-4 - SAWFIRST | Hot Celebrity Pictures. 2013. Miley-Cyrus-Photoshoot-by-Terry-Richardson-September-2013-4 - SAWFIRST | Hot Celebrity Pictures. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.sawfirst.com/miley-cyrus-photoshoot-by-terry-richardson-september-2013-2013-09-10.html/miley-cyrus-photoshoot-by-terry-richardson-september-2013-4. [Accessed 21 October 2013]

The Taming of the Shrew

Last week, I watched ShakespeaRe-Told: The Taming of the Shrew. It is a T.V drama that was originally broadcast in 2005 on BBC One. It was a modern interpretation of Shakespeare’s comedy and though the adaptation was set in modern day Britain, there were subtle references to Elizabethan style throughout, maintaining a connection to the era in which the play was first written.

First of all, there’s Katherine Minola’s wedding dress. It has long sleeves and a big collar, somewhat reflecting the gowns worn by royalty and upper class women in the Elizabethan period. Those with wealth and power could afford such dresses which perfectly reflects the character of Katherine as she is both rich and dominant.
Marriage Plots | ENGH 202 Texts and Contexts. 2013. Marriage Plots | ENGH 202 Texts and Contexts. [ONLINE] Available at:http://courseblogs.gmu.edu/marriageplots/. [Accessed 21 October 2013].

Also, in the wedding scene, Petruchio is seen sporting women’s attire. He arrives dressed in fishnet tights, a mini skirt and kinky boots. Though the outfit is surprising and outrageous, tribute is paid to the materials used in the Elizabethan era. Over it all he wears robes made of velvet. The rich colours imply money and status and there is intricate detailing and Elizabethan style ruffs.

There is a scene in the film where the mother, Mrs Minola, wears a pearl necklace. Pearls were very popular in the Elizabethan era and were a symbol of high status and purity. In keeping with the Elizabethan era, the majority of the actors were made up to have pale faces and little eye make-up.


Sunday, 20 October 2013

Contemporary Elizabethan Images


La Boutique. 2013. La Boutique. [ONLINE] Available at: http://laboutique-blog.tumblr.com/. [Accessed 20 October 2013].

Shaping Contours. 2013. Shaping Contours. [ONLINE] Available at:http://shapingcontours.tumblr.com. [Accessed 20 October 2013].

girlvintagewoolfian. 2013. girlvintagewoolfian. [ONLINE] Available at:http://sangfroidwoolf.tumblr.com/. [Accessed 20 October 2013].


/Cinderella (Character)/#1195190 - Zerochan | We Heart It. 2013./Cinderella (Character)/#1195190 - Zerochan | We Heart It. [ONLINE] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/39479821/via/bex_walker_90. [Accessed 20 October 2013].

Art School Glasses. 2013. Art School Glasses. [ONLINE] Available at:http://artschoolglasses.tumblr.com/. [Accessed 20 October 2013]

Divas to Dandelions. 2013. Divas to Dandelions. [ONLINE] Available at:http://divastodandelions.tumblr.com/. [Accessed 20 October 2013].

A French Lady In NC. 2013. A French Lady In NC. [ONLINE] Available at:http://afrenchladyinnc.tumblr.com/. [Accessed 20 October 2013].

 | Elizabethan Inspired Shoot. 2013. . | Elizabethan Inspired Shoot. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/89157267595309838/. [Accessed 20 October 2013].

Beautiful! Image by Viona Ielegems. Check ... | Elizabethan Inspir…. 2013.Beautiful! Image by Viona Ielegems. Check ... | Elizabethan Inspir…. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/89157267593477695/. [Accessed 20 October 2013].

Wednesday, 16 October 2013

Skin Care


The top tips of skin care and preparing for make-up application!

  •  There are 3 major steps to the skin care process, CLEANSE, TONE and MOISTURISE
  •  Cover surface in couch roll and have your products out and prepared in advance.
  •  Protect the model’s clothes with a cloak.
  •  Make the model feel comfortable.
  •  During the consultation process, ask your model if they’re allergic to anything and find out if they are wearing contact lenses.
  •  If you’re working on a male model, don’t use cotton wool as it will get caught in their stubble. It’s best to use tissues instead.
  •  If you are in a situation where you have to prepare the faces of several models, opt for a sensitive skin range as these products are safe to use on everybody’s faces.
  • Cotton pads and ear buds are very useful tools and are used throughout the skin care process.
  • Get your model to close their eyes as a precaution and pin their hair back so it doesn't get in the way.
  • If your model has blocked pores, you may recommend that they exfoliate. They shouldn’t exfoliate any more than 3 times a week and not on the day of make-up application.

Cleansing, toning & moisturising

  1. Cleansing the face breaks down the make-up particles. 
  2. Apply the cleanser onto two cotton pads, one for either hand. 
  3. Stand behind your model and work in the mirror. 
  4. Ask your model to lift their head slightly and begin at the neck, moving the pads in upward strokes, and working up to the hairline. 
  5. You should continue to cleanse until no more make-up comes off of the face.
  6. Should the model be wearing water proof mascara, you will need to source a particular product especially for the removal of this. 
  7. If the model is wearing a lot of eye make-up you can ask the model to remove it themselves as they’ll press harder onto their eye lids.
  8. Toning takes off the cleansing lotion and the rest of the make-up.
  9. You should apply it using the same method as the cleanser.  
  10. Moisturiser helps create a base for the foundation. Only a pea sized amount is necessary on the models face and use your fingers to massage it into the skin.




Skin & Hair Diseases

Before carrying out a practical session on a model, it is very important to assess the condition of their skin and hair. During the consultation process, you must ask the model if they have any contraindications that may prohibit or restrict any applications. If they do have any contraindications, you must assess the condition/ severity of the issue and act accordingly.

Here are a few skin and hair diseases with visual references.

Alopecia

Alopecia is the medical term for what is most commonly understood as hair loss. This disease comes in various forms and can be triggered by different issues. Male Pattern Baldness for example sees the hair of men recede from the hair line. It is a genetic condition and sufferers will most likely have family members with the same issues.
Alopecia Areata is another form of alopecia which is caused by problems within the immune system. It is most commonly found in teenagers and young adults however it can still occur at any age. The majority of alopecia areata sufferers will see their hair begin to grow back about a year after the fall out. It is believed that a person’s genes may make them more likely to contract disease.

It is possible for hair loss to occur as a result of a complication from another condition. This is called scarring alopecia as in this instance, the hair loss is irreversible. Illnesses such as Lichen Planus and Discoid Lupus can completely destroy the hair follicle so it cannot grow back.

Hair loss is frequently associated with the cancer treatment chemotherapy. This type of hair loss is called Anagen effluvium. It is temporary and can affect the face and body as well as the scalp. Usually, patients see their hair begin to grow back after a few months.
Telegen effluvium is the final form of alopecia. It doesn’t to refer to hair loss specifically but thinning of the hair as a reaction to stress of certain medication.
Should you be faced with a model suffering from any of the above forms of alopecia, I think it is first important to establish the severity of the situation. Styling any hair on the head of the sufferer may cause it to fall out prematurely. The best solution in any situation regarding this disease would be to use false hair in the form of a wig to carry out the hair design on.

Eczema

Eczema is a non-contagious dry skin condition. Though the condition varies depending on the person, it is most commonly seen in children. Mild cases involve dry, scaly skin that can be irritant and sore. In more severe cases, eczema can crust and even bleed. Eczema sufferers find scratching the area brings relief to the irritation however it can cause the skin to break and become prone to infection. There are different forms of eczema.

Discoid eczema appears in the size and shape of coins on the lower legs or forearms of a person. They’re slightly bumpy and within days of the patches appearing, they will begin to ooze and become infected. After a while, the disc shapes clear and the skin is left flaky and dry. It is believed the use of certain soaps and detergents, coupled with general eczema, causes this.

Contact Dermatitis


When the skin comes into contact with a certain substance, it can cause a reaction and become inflamed. This is contact dermatitis. It’s a form of eczema that can visually leave the skin looking red and scaly and in severe cases it leads to blistering and breaking of the skin. Though a person is able to contract this disease anywhere on the body, it is most common on the hands.
With irritant contact dermatitis, only the directly contacted area of the skin will react. The symptoms of a reaction can appear within 48 hours however strong irritants many cause a faster response.
Allergic contact dermatitis takes longer to appear. The area of skin in which the direct contact occurred will react however other areas may also be affected.


Acne

When the pores on the skin get blocked, it will bulge outward of the skin forming a small raised bump. Sometimes, bacteria on the skin can contaminate these plugged holes and cause papules or pustules.

Acne is very common in teenagers, triggered by the rise in levels of hormones during puberty. The sebaceous glands in the skin follicles are sensitive to hormones which effects the sebum levels that cause the blockages. It is also thought to be a genetic issue, parents who suffered from bad acne will find their children do too.

Acne in adults is most commonly found amongst women. The most common times of flare up being before their period is due or during pregnancy.The face, chest and back are the areas where acne usually occurs. There are six types of spots that acne causes. These are:
  • -        Blackheads
  • -        Whiteheads
  • -        Papules
  • -        Pustules
  • -        Nodules
  • -        Cysts


Psoriasis

Psoriasis affects a small amount of the population and most commonly develops in adults under 35 years, affecting men and women equally. Like Eczema, the disease varies in severity according to the person. This disease is long lasting with no banishing treatment. If you suffer from psoriasis, patches of your skin, usually on the elbows, knees or scalp, will become red and flaky and will be covered in silvery scales. The irritation can be minor however some suffer considerably from it.

The occurrence of this disease happens when skin cells are replaced faster than normal. A skin renewal process that takes three to four weeks in a non-sufferer will take three to seven days in a psoriasis sufferer. The cells build up and cause the psoriasis.

When faced with a model that may have a skin disease, the necessary precautions must be taken in order to carry out the service safely. Products should be carefully selected so they shan’t aggravate the skin disorder or cause discomfort to the model. If they have a contagious infection, all tools used on the model must be disposed of after use to avoid cross contamination.


Hair loss (alopecia) - NHS Choices. 2013. Hair loss (alopecia) - NHS Choices. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Hair-loss/Pages/Introduction.aspx. [Accessed 03 December 2013].

National Eczema Society . 2013. : National Eczema Society . [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.eczema.org/. [Accessed 03 December 2013].
Contact Dermatitis - Symptoms - NHS Choices. 2013. Contact Dermatitis - Symptoms - NHS Choices. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Eczema-(contact-dermatitis)/Pages/Symptoms.aspx. [Accessed 03 December 2013].
Acne - Symptoms - NHS Choices. 2013. Acne - Symptoms - NHS Choices. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Acne/Pages/Symptoms.aspx. [Accessed 03 December 2013].
Psoriasis - Causes - NHS Choices. 2013. Psoriasis - Causes - NHS Choices. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Psoriasis/Pages/Causes.aspx. [Accessed 03 December 2013].
Alopecia. Causes & Treatments (UK). Traction Alopecia | Patient.co.uk. 2013. Alopecia. Causes & Treatments (UK). Traction Alopecia | Patient.co.uk. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.patient.co.uk/doctor/Alopecia.htm. [Accessed 03 December 2013].
Eczema - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. 2013. Eczema - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. [ONLINE] Available at:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eczema. [Accessed 03 December 2013].
Skin dermatitis? Practical, reliable and proven solutions. 2013. Skin dermatitis? Practical, reliable and proven solutions. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.dermatitis-page.info/. [Accessed 03 December 2013].

Psoriasis - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. 2013. Psoriasis - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. [ONLINE] Available at:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Psoriasis. [Accessed 03 December 2013].

Selina Snow

I visited the Selina Snow exhibition titled Indian and Children Series at Southampton’s City Art Gallery. Snow’s inspiration for the collection derived from her very culturally diverse background. She bought many elements of her unique childhood together to create beautiful, colourful pieces. I am able to relate to Snow’s inspiration as I too come from different backgrounds. When I look at her work it is easy to see what influenced different features. 





  

This particular piece is one of my favourites from Snow’s collection. There are so many different elements yet they seem to work together really well. When I look at it, I see symmetry which I think reflects Snow’s equal divide of cultures. Also the combination of nature and religion suggests peace and serenity; the inclusion of birds implies freedom. If I were to create a make-up design from this particular piece of work, I would copy the use of bright, bold colours, perhaps copy the floral print background into a design on the face. 

Current Exhibitions - Southampton City Council . 2013. Current Exhibitions - Southampton City Council . [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.southampton.gov.uk/s-leisure/artsheritage/sotonartgallery/Exhibitions.aspx. [Accessed 16 October 2013].

Monday, 14 October 2013

Summer Project

My analysis of this image...

Twirling Clare: Lobster Dress. 2013. Twirling Clare: Lobster Dress. [ONLINE] Available at: http://twirlingclare.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/lobster-dress.html. [Accessed 14 October 2013].
I think it is safe to say this is a staged shoot. This portrait shot shows a very controversial scenario. A beautifully made up Wallis Simpson standing alone in a wood, holding branches in both hands.

When you consider photo shoots conducted outdoors in a woodland environment, you envision a fresh and spacious scenario. However the background in this photograph comes across as quite sinister. The light falls on part of the background on the left of the image making dispersed thin shapes. The branches held by Simpson in the foreground also share the same qualities, looking almost like weapons with the grasp she has on them. The dark, eerie side of the background helps the statement Schiaparelli dress to stand out in its crisp white formation.

The dress Simpson is wearing in the photograph, I feel, is a hidden focal point. Predicting the scandal that would emerge from this shoot, the image consultants were clever to reduce the attention through the chosen background and through Simpson’s body language.
A lobster is obviously found in an ocean/sea environment, the opposite habitat to the forest/woodland background that Simpson is shot in front of. The clash of the background takes focus away from the erotically interpreted lobster that has been shrewdly positioned from the crotch area of the dress, down the leg. In 1937 when this image was taken, fashion was yet to make that more definitive transition into surrealist fashion and therefore it would have been considered quite taboo for any woman to be sporting such a sexually exploiting design on their attire.

The white of the dress suggests purity and innocence, corrupted not only by the positioning of the large lobster design but also by the sash across the middle which accentuates Simpson’s figure in a sexually provocative manner.

The shawl Simpson is wearing over her shoulders somewhat protects her modesty however it’s a sheer material that daringly still shows skin.

Simpson is photographed from a distance, her entire body is visible and she stands alone. She’s not opting for a glamour pose as such and stands quite awkwardly for a posed shoot. Simpson is seen gazing out of the shot with an expression of vulnerability and concern. She looks lost in thought and yearning for aid. She’s holding handfuls of branches, an unusual stance which contributes to the disguising of the lobster on her dress.

Simpson’s costume and hair and makeup would make more sense in a formal, social function environment and not outdoors in the woods. She wasn’t particularly loved by the general public and I feel this is a rebellion against their tarnish. She embraces her bad reputation by wearing such a risqué design on her dress so boldly.


Surrealism

So surrealism is set to make a return thanks to a new exhibition at Tate Modern that pays tribute to the artistic movement. Colin McDowell, however, is adamant that it never went away and before we can begin to wonder how that is so, he gives us his view…

McDowell’s article on surrealism perfectly details the evolution of the movement in the fashion industry and describes its transition throughout the years. He explains that the relationships formed between certain fashion designers and surrealist artists in the 1930s shaped the fashion industry forever more. McDowell considers fashion and surrealism to be very similar and lists the work of many designers influenced by surrealism, from Coco Chanel to Alexander McQueen.

Though McDowell is quick to support the issue (is surrealism really ‘returning’?) with examples of these designers’ work, he doesn’t exactly evaluate them. Nor does he present any kind of argument against the idea of surrealism in fashion which makes for a very factual, informative article.

McDowell is quick to frequently refer to many high-fashion designers, the prestige of which emphasises McDowell’s knowledge of the fashion movements. He uses their prestige to reaffirm his beliefs that surrealism has influenced the most prominent of designers throughout all decades.

Needless to say, McDowell’s interpretation of fashion trends is valued immensely. Therefore it would have been of interest to grasp an understanding of his opinions when faced with the ‘return’ of surrealism in the art form and his musings on whether it will impact fashion and beauty trends on another level. 

Clearly, McDowell considers the ‘return of surrealism’ to be a tarnish on the continual but less prominent surrealism that has had a place in fashion since 1930. In response, he gives us the very factual article detailing the rise of surrealism in fashion and how it never really went away. 




Alexander McQueen
20 Spectacular and Surreal Dresses. 2013. 20 Spectacular and Surreal Dresses. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.awwwards.com/20-spectacular-and-surreal-dresses.html. [Accessed 14 October 2013]. 

Monday, 7 October 2013

The Sieve Portrait



Quentin Metsys the Younger (1543-1589) was a painter, best known for this particular piece created in 1583, a portrait of Elizabeth I titled Sieve Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I. The portrait was constructed with oil on a panel and now resides in The Pinacoteca Nazionale, a museum in Siena, Tuscany, Italy.

Throughout her reign as Queen of England, Elizabeth sat for many portraits all of which would include different objects or backgrounds to convey different stages of her life. Certain objects became familiar throughout Elizabeth’s portraits. The inclusion of a column and the globe symbolise empire and the repetition of their presence throughout her portraits reinforced her power.

In this portrait, Elizabeth poses with a sieve as it symbolises purity. This connotation originates from a story called Petrarch’s Triumph of Chastity where a Roman Vestal Virgin proves her innocence by carrying water in a sieve and not spilling any. In Elizabeth’s case, the sieve represents her ‘Virgin Queen’ status. Around the edge of the sieve there is an inscription that translates as ‘the good falls to the ground while the bad remains in the saddle’.

To the right of Elizabeth in the portrait, we see her courtiers, one of which is believed to be Sir Christopher Hatton. If it is him, it is possible that it was he who arranged this portrait having met the artist, Quentin, 10 years prior to this portrait during a trip to Antwerp.

Behind Elizabeth, oval images relay the story of Aeneas and Dido. The Queen is supposedly similar to Aeneas as she too was faced with temptation (marriage) but chose to lead a powerful nation.

The gown Elizabeth is wearing has puffy sleeves, a full skirt and is cinched at the waist which makes for an exaggerated silhouette. It’s made of a rich black fabric, a colour that was recognised as a colour worn by high class people. She displays jewels around her waist, neck and in her hair as well as a large brooch, all of which convey her wealth and beauty. 

Pinacoteca Nazionale (Siena) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. 2013.Pinacoteca Nazionale (Siena) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. [ONLINE] Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinacoteca_Nazionale_(Siena). [Accessed 07 October 2013].

File:Metsys Elizabeth I The Sieve Portrait c1583.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. 2013. File:Metsys Elizabeth I The Sieve Portrait c1583.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. [ONLINE] Available at:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Metsys_Elizabeth_I_The_Sieve_Portrait_c1583.jpg. [Accessed 07 October 2013].

Quentin Metsys the Younger - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. 2013.Quentin Metsys the Younger - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. [ONLINE] Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quentin_Metsys_the_Younger. [Accessed 07 October 2013].

1583 "Sieve" portrait by Quentin Metsys the Younger (Pinacoteca Nazionale, Siena Italy) | Grand Ladies | gogm. 2013. 1583 "Sieve" portrait by Quentin Metsys the Younger (Pinacoteca Nazionale, Siena Italy) | Grand Ladies | gogm. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.gogmsite.net/the_late_farthingale_era_fr/minialbum_queen_elizabeth_o/1583_sieve_portrait_by_quen.html. [Accessed 07 October 2013].

Friday, 4 October 2013

If I could...


It is no big secret that I am unconditionally and irrevocably in love with the incredible make-up artist, Charlotte Tilbury. If I could transform myself based on any look by Charlotte Tilbury, I would have to choose the look created on model, Daphne Groeneveld, for H&M’s Fall/Winter 2012 advertisements. The look has a 60s vibe to it, especially with the slight beehive of a hairstyle that accompanies it. It’s not a crazy, outrageous look which replicates my personality precisely.


I feel that it is quite a universal image that could be adjusted to suit almost anybody, this reflects my ability to adapt to various situations and surroundings. I am a very visual person, therefore chose a make-up where the focus is on the eyes. To me, the natural lips suggests an introverted personality which I can familiarise with. If I were to debut this look, I would be in an American style diner sharing a milkshake with Elvis Presley.

Daphne Groeneveld | PRINT AND PATTERN. 2013. Daphne Groeneveld | PRINT AND PATTERN. [ONLINE] Available at:http://printandpattern.net/tag/daphne-groeneveld/. [Accessed 04 October 2013].