Tech File: Shaping & Contouring

Products & Equipment required:

·        Foundation Palette

·        Blusher

·        Highlighter Brush

·        Blusher Brush

·        Powder Brush

Method:

1.      Having completed the base, but before powdering…

2.      Take a foundation colour 2 shades lighter than the skin tone to highlight with

3.      Using the highlighter brush, work this lighter tone across the top of the cheek bones

4.      Also work the colour
- into the corner of the eyes and centre of the eye lid
- above and below the brow line
-across the forehead and down the nose
-beneath the nose and around the edges
- around the corners of the mouth
- into the groove below the lip

5.      Use the powder brush to buff this into the base

6.      Select a foundation colour 2 shades darker than the skin tone to contour with

7.      Work this colour
- below the cheek bones (from centre of ear to corner of lip)
- narrowly down either side of the nose
- just above the temples on either side of the head
- along the jaw line

8.      Using the blusher brush, have your model smile to locate the apples of the cheeks

9.      Apply the blusher to this area, working it back up towards the hairline, between the contoured areas

10.   Set with powder

Notes:

·        Highlighter places emphasis on areas and brings them forward

·        Contouring gives the impression of receding facial features

·        Feel on the model’s face for the cheek bones and work according to their position

·        Blend out the highlighting and contouring so there are no severe lines

·        Work the blusher up into the hairline and blend outwards 

Tech File: The Base

Products & Equipment required:

·        Foundation Palette

·        Primer

·        Concealer Palette

·        Translucent Loose Powder

·        Foundation Brush

·        Powder Brush

·        Powder Puff

Method:

1.      Evaluate the right base for the right skin

2.      Prep the skin with cleanser, toner and moisturiser

3.      Match the foundation colour to the model’s skin tone

4.      Apply a primer beforehand or mix in with the foundation

5.      Use the foundation brush to apply foundation all over the face, ears and neck

6.      Conceal over the top of the base to correct any imperfections

7.      Using the powder brush, buff in the base

8.      Finish off by powdering the make-up to set it and prevent shine and crease lines

Notes:

·        Carry out a consultation on your model to identify skin type (young, old, dry, greasy, spotty)

·        Mix foundation colours to achieve the perfect match

·        Grease based products are good for dry skin and photographic work

·        Tinted moisturisers are good to use on male models as it maintains the texture of their skin

·        On male models, use a matt primer down the t-zone for a natural look

·        Mix White Illamasqua foundation with concealers

·        Different colours cancel out different skin tones
- green takes out red
- pink takes out blue
- peach/yellow takes out purple/brown

·        Do NOT use grease products on top of powder

·        Aim to enhance the yellow tones of the model’s skin tone as opposed to the pink tones

·        Clinique hypo-allergenic range is ideal as it’s suitable for all skin types

Tech File: Health & Safety

These are health and safety practises that should be identified with and present during all studio/ practical work…

·        Prepare your station in advance with any equipment or products you many require

·        Lay couch roll onto the surface prior to setting up your station

·        Carry out a consultation on your model and refer to it regularly to ensure a safe practical session

·        Make sure you wash/sanitise your hands regularly

·        Ensure you are presentable, respectable clothing, hair tied back, no jewellery etc.

·        Ensure that all electrical tools and appliances being used have been PAT tested

·        Stow/trail wires of electrical items safely to avoid a trip hazard

·        Ensure all products and equipment are stored in accordance to their regulations

·        Clean and sterilise all brushes and tools between use on models to avoid cross contamination

·        Use disposable tools where necessary to avoid cross contamination

·        Decant products and work from a separate palette to avoid cross contamination

·        Protect the model’s clothes during the practical with a wrap or couch roll

·        Should a model present any contra indications that restrict or prohibit the practical session, act accordingly

·        Be sure to report any accidents, spillages or other hazards that occur in the work room immediately

Final Design

 Out of the 3 designs I’ve created, the third is my preferred. I felt there was still room for improvement and after a few trial sessions, I made a few alterations to achieve a final design. Advancing from my third design, I have chosen to work more around the eyes with an okra yellow smokey eye, white eyeliner and a coat of mascara. Instead of white eyebrows which I decided didn’t work for the look, I’ve used a MAC coffee coloured pencil and worked it through my eyebrows to provide a more definitive frame. I chose a slightly darker shade of lip colour, again from the Kryolan palette, to give more definition.

Design 3

Design 3 

My third design is to have a band of white across the face to give the impression of the traditional Elizabethan emerging from the skin, not entirely white. On my second trial I worked white foundation into the eyebrows but I wasn’t too pleased with the outcome of that. The second set of pictures show how I trialled different shades of lip colour from the Kryolan palette to see what would work.

Design 2

Design 2 

My second design was inspired by the lip trip workshop and also contouring with colour. I chose to do the lips and cheeks in purple because that was one of the colours higher class Elizabethans wore.

Design 1

As I approach the final assessment of the Elizabethan unit, I am required to create a contemporary Elizabethan design that can be carried out by somebody else on myself. In preparation, I created 3 possible designs to trial on myself and assess.

DESIGN 1 

With this look, I wanted to achieve a reverse on the traditional Elizabethan make-up. Therefore I opted for a rouge eye and then white lips and emphasised highlight on the cheeks. For the lips, I used Illamasqua white foundation and then set with loose powder.