Make-Up Assessment

I am really pleased with Corey's application of my design. She spent a lot of time creating a flawless base which looked great but meant she was slightly pushed for time when it came to applying the rest of the make-up. She followed my design accordingly and was very professional with her application. 

Here are the images from the final assessment. 

Final Design Practise

Discussing my design with my assessment partner, Corey, and teachers during our trial period helped me to expand and improve my design. Corey practised my design on me which gave me the opportunity to talk her through it and ensure she knew what was expected. I made sure that all the products and tools required were those found in our compulsory kits so Corey had all the materials to trial the design in her own time too. 

Here are the images from Corey's trial on me. 

Tech File: Traditional Elizabethan

Products & Equipment required:

·        Illamasqua matte primer

·        Illamasqua white foundation

·        Pink powder blusher

·        Translucent loose powder

·        Eyebrow/lash tool

·        Brush set

Method:

·        Shake the white base to avoid separation

·        Mix the base and primer on the back of your hand with foundation brush

·        Start at the nose, go over the lips and into the corners of the eyes, make-up over and in the ear, up to the eyelash, through the eyebrow, down to the neck line and into the hair line

·        Buff the foundation to lose the clown like quality

·        Work eyebrow brush into the white foundation and work into the eyebrow, against the hair to cover the eyebrows

·        Powder everything, everywhere

·        Circular motion of pink blusher on the apples of the cheeks (not contouring)

·        Use smaller brush to pat the pink blusher onto the lips

·        Make eyelashes white using disposable

Tech File: Lips

Products & Equipment required:

·        Kryolan Lip Palette

·        MAC Red Pencil

·        Lip brush

·        Lip balm/ Carmex

Method:

1.      If the model has dry lips, you may wish to exfoliate prior to make-up application

2.      To hydrate the lips and provide a good base, apply some Carmex to the model’s lips

3.      When applying the lip liner, have your model angle her head in accordance to the direction you are drawing

4.      Begin on the upper lip from the inner corner to the cupids bow

5.      Do not take your pencil off the lips, use small back and forth motions to ensure a neat line

6.      Line the cupids bow (the angle of the brush is perfect for this)

7.      Draw a line from the centre of the cupids bow to the bottom lip and use this point to begin lining the bottom lip

8.      Draw dots on the bottom lip from the centre to the outer edges and then join them

9.      Apply your selected lip colour within this lines, have your model open her mouth wide to ensure you’ve covered all of the lip

Notes:

·         Choose a lip colour that is slightly lighter than the lip liner  

·        To achieve a matte lip effect, press on powder

·        You can create a 3D effect by applying lip gloss on the centre of the bottom lip and the cupids bow

·        If working with different shades of a colour, put the darker tone in the corner 

Tech File: Eyes

Products & Equipment required:

·        Eyeshadow Palette

·        Eyeliner

·        Mascara

·        Translucent loose powder

·        Eyebrow/lash tool

·        Brush set

·        Disposable mascara wands

Method:

1.      Identify your models eyes, referring to the ‘eye shape’ sheet, this will offer you eye make-up technique specifically to suit the particular eye shape

2.      Ask your model to look up and apply translucent powder underneath the eye to catch fall out

3.      Choose an eye shadow colour in 3 shades, light, medium and dark

4.      Work the lightest shade over the eyelid and up to the eyebrow

5.      Then, apply the medium colour just over the eye lid

6.      Finally, apply the darkest colour only in the outer corner of the eye

7.      Draw a neat line of eye shadow along the lash line, getting your model to look down whilst you do so

8.      Using disposable mascara wands, apply mascara to the model’s eye lashes. Have your model look straight ahead for the upper lashes and then look up when coating the bottom eye lashes

Notes:

·        Don’t forget to brush off the excess powder once you’ve finished your eye make-up application

·        To avoid smudging the base, use a powder puff if you need to rest against the model’s face 

Tech File: Shaping & Contouring

Products & Equipment required:

·        Foundation Palette

·        Blusher

·        Highlighter Brush

·        Blusher Brush

·        Powder Brush

Method:

1.      Having completed the base, but before powdering…

2.      Take a foundation colour 2 shades lighter than the skin tone to highlight with

3.      Using the highlighter brush, work this lighter tone across the top of the cheek bones

4.      Also work the colour
- into the corner of the eyes and centre of the eye lid
- above and below the brow line
-across the forehead and down the nose
-beneath the nose and around the edges
- around the corners of the mouth
- into the groove below the lip

5.      Use the powder brush to buff this into the base

6.      Select a foundation colour 2 shades darker than the skin tone to contour with

7.      Work this colour
- below the cheek bones (from centre of ear to corner of lip)
- narrowly down either side of the nose
- just above the temples on either side of the head
- along the jaw line

8.      Using the blusher brush, have your model smile to locate the apples of the cheeks

9.      Apply the blusher to this area, working it back up towards the hairline, between the contoured areas

10.   Set with powder

Notes:

·        Highlighter places emphasis on areas and brings them forward

·        Contouring gives the impression of receding facial features

·        Feel on the model’s face for the cheek bones and work according to their position

·        Blend out the highlighting and contouring so there are no severe lines

·        Work the blusher up into the hairline and blend outwards 

Tech File: The Base

Products & Equipment required:

·        Foundation Palette

·        Primer

·        Concealer Palette

·        Translucent Loose Powder

·        Foundation Brush

·        Powder Brush

·        Powder Puff

Method:

1.      Evaluate the right base for the right skin

2.      Prep the skin with cleanser, toner and moisturiser

3.      Match the foundation colour to the model’s skin tone

4.      Apply a primer beforehand or mix in with the foundation

5.      Use the foundation brush to apply foundation all over the face, ears and neck

6.      Conceal over the top of the base to correct any imperfections

7.      Using the powder brush, buff in the base

8.      Finish off by powdering the make-up to set it and prevent shine and crease lines

Notes:

·        Carry out a consultation on your model to identify skin type (young, old, dry, greasy, spotty)

·        Mix foundation colours to achieve the perfect match

·        Grease based products are good for dry skin and photographic work

·        Tinted moisturisers are good to use on male models as it maintains the texture of their skin

·        On male models, use a matt primer down the t-zone for a natural look

·        Mix White Illamasqua foundation with concealers

·        Different colours cancel out different skin tones
- green takes out red
- pink takes out blue
- peach/yellow takes out purple/brown

·        Do NOT use grease products on top of powder

·        Aim to enhance the yellow tones of the model’s skin tone as opposed to the pink tones

·        Clinique hypo-allergenic range is ideal as it’s suitable for all skin types